In this case, investigation by the NGV Textiles Conservation team followed several key threads. The first was to resolve the date of make and likelihood of the bodice’s couture pedigree, the second aimed to establish the authenticity of the label.
The label reads ‘Worth and Bobergh, Paris, 7 Rue de la Paix Au Premiere’, in a manner that is consistent with labels of that partnership and its likely construction date. When the Empress Eugenie became a client in 1862, Worth added a centrally located coat of arms. To date, no other label matching the bodice’s has been sighted. Reason suggests that it is a fake, or extremely rare, used by Worth during his first two years of operation. Whether the label was attached to the bodice at this time remains a bigger mystery.