Covering the head when both indoors and outside was considered important for modesty and health. While women of all classes wore close-fitting coifs, embroidered versions, either made at home or purchased ready-made, were fashionable among the upper classes between the 1590s and 1620s. This cap is decorated with silver gilt filé and yellow silk floss in a combination of braid, chain, Cretan and double-running stitches. The repeat pattern of three large stylised flowers, including roses and borage, is interspersed with applied metal thread spiders’ webs and once-shiny sequins.