Most of the equipment needed for a fashionable silhouette in the Victorian era remained unseen, hidden beneath layers of garments. The Empress crinoline, made of flexible steel hoops, created a bell-shaped silhouette so desirable that its manufacturer claimed, ‘fashionable dressmakers value no other and refuse to make a dress on any other model’. A decade later, rich folds of fabric suspended in an elaborate high bustle were supported by another caged contraption of steel half-hoops, stout cotton fabric and lacing to adjust the height. Each hoop could collapse gently into the next, allowing ladies to sit down more easily.