Collection Online
Medium
cotton, wire
Measurements
85.0 cm (centre back) 59.0 cm (diameter)
Place/s of Execution
(England)
Inscription
label, inside back, stamped in ink on white cotton: TRADE (crown) MARK / THOMPSON'S / No. 72 / "EMPRESS"
inscribed in ink on waistband: Mary Ireland collection
Accession Number
CT95-1982
Department
International Fashion and Textiles
Credit Line
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne
Purchased, 1982
Gallery location
Not on display
About this work

Most of the equipment needed for a fashionable silhouette in the Victorian era remained unseen, hidden beneath layers of garments. The Empress crinoline, made of flexible steel hoops, created a bell-shaped silhouette so desirable that its manufacturer claimed, ‘fashionable dressmakers value no other and refuse to make a dress on any other model’. A decade later, rich folds of fabric suspended in an elaborate high bustle were supported by another caged contraption of steel half-hoops, stout cotton fabric and lacing to adjust the height. Each hoop could collapse gently into the next, allowing ladies to sit down more easily.

Physical description
Cream, 11 wire circles held together with 7 tapes on a linen band. Written in ink 'Mary Ireland collection' on waistband.