Martin Grant
Artwork Labels & Didactics
Artwork Labels & Didactics
Room 1
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
A-line pea jacket
2021, remade 2025
DNA collection, autumn–winter 2021
wool, acetate, plastic (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant’s approach to design has always been motivated by a clear sense of evolution rather than revolution. Grant builds each collection on the last and continually refines key silhouettes that have become classics in his repertoire. His 2021 autumn–winter DNA collection was an opportunity to return to designs that have been cultivated over decades, subtly manipulating the details, proportions and shapes of his Crinoline coat and Pea coat.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
A-line pea coat
2021, remade 2025
DNA collection, autumn–winter 2021
wool, acetate, plastic (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Pea coat
2021, remade 2025
DNA collection, autumn–winter 2021
wool, acetate, plastic (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Pea jacket
2021, remade 2025
DNA collection, autumn–winter 2021
wool, acetate, plastic (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Crinoline coat
2021, remade 2025
DNA collection, autumn–winter 2021
wool, acetate, plastic (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Crinoline jacket
2021, remade 2025
DNA collection, autumn–winter 2021
wool, acetate, plastic (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Kindergarten paintings
1971
gouache, paper
Collection of the artist and Beverly Grant
From the very beginning, the clues were there for all to observe. As a young boy, Martin Grant was an independent, creative soul who was drawn to the sculptural qualities of clothing long before he even knew about the world of fashion. A prophetic series of kindergarten paintings by four-year-old Grant, which have survived thanks to his mother, are evidence of this. Depicting female figures encircled by voluminous ball gowns, they signal an early fascination with the art of dressing-up.
Polly Borland photographer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1959, worked in England 1989–
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Habiller deshabiller
To dress, to undress
1994
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy, 2025
Courtesy Polly Borland & Sullivan Strumpf
While creating fashion was his focus, Grant also pursued several artistic projects that combined his love of sculpture and fashion history. In 1994, he presented Habiller deshabiller (To dress, to undress), a sitespecific installation in the famous gardens of Château de Courances, south of Paris. Dressing the garden sculptures with madeto-measure crinolines – a structured petticoat used to add volume to a skirt – in cream calico, Grant played with the scale of the same fashionable silhouette which had fascinated him so much as a small child.
Martin Grant
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Crinoline
2005
cotton, polyvinyl chloride
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Couture coat
1996
wool, acetate
Gift of Rosslynd Piggott, 2006 2006.376
Jenny Watson
Melbourne, Victoria born 1951
This year’s fashion
1984
gouache on paper
Collection of Martin Grant
One of Polly Borland’s earliest portraits of the young Martin Grant is him stood in front of Jenny Watson’s painting This year’s fashion. Watson and Grant had studios opposite each other in Stalbridge Chambers in the early 1980s and used to swap clothes for paintings. The work remains a talisman of sorts for the designer who still gives it pride of place in his studio.
Ephemera
1980s
various
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Crinoline coat
1994
autumn–winter 1994–95
wool, acetate, plastic (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
The Crinoline coat (known affectionately as the Mary Poppins coat) was part of Grant’s 1994–95 autumn–winter collection; his first presented in Paris, which took place on the cobbled street outside La Chaise au Plafond Café in the Marais. The inspiration for the coat can be traced back to Grant’s formative years in Melbourne, during which he was inspired by the fashionable bell-shaped silhouettes of the 1890s and 1950s.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Corset and skirt
1994
autumn–winter 1994–95
leather, nylon and metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Suit
1994
autumn–winter 1994–95
wool (tweed), acetate, metal, nylon and plastic (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Polly Borland
Melbourne, Victoria born 1959, worked in
England 1989–
Portrait of Cate Blanchett
1999
featuring Joan of Arc dress autumn–winter
1999–2000
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy, 2025
Courtesy Polly Borland & Sullivan Strumpf
His clothes come to life on the body – it’s the way he will draw attention to the neck, wrist or décolleté.
– Cate Blanchett
Since they first met at Cannes Film Festival, actress Cate Blanchett has been a friend and client of Grant’s and is often photographed in his designs. ‘There is something really flirtatious [about Grant’s designs],’ Blanchett told Vogue Australia in 2004. ‘It is rare to find a designer who has got impeccable taste and who is also a sensualist.’
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Joan of Arc dress
1999
autumn–winter, 1999–2000
wool
Gift of Rosslynd Piggott, 2017 2017.139
In 1996, Grant consolidated his new life as a Paris-based designer by opening a boutique in a beautiful old barber’s shop on rue des Rosiers in the Marais district. Over the next few years his public profile grew, and he developed a dedicated following of private clients and fashion buyers. This work was part of Grant’s 1999–2000 autumn–winter collection that he presented inside the tiny shop to the assembled fashion press.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Napoleon II coat
2000
autumn–winter 2000–01
leather, acetate, plastic
Purchased, 2001 2001.561
The Napoleon coat first featured in Grant’s 1999–2000 autumn–winter collection in felted red wool. The following year Grant revisited the coat, this time working with glazed leather to sculpt the military –inspired collar and subtly fluted cuff. The vertical and horizontal lines are reinforced with immaculate topstitched seams, a recurrent and now signature feature of Grant’s work.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Napoleon coat
1999
autumn–winter 1999–2000
wool, acetate, plastic (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Thierry Chomel photographer
France born 1958
Naomi Campbell modelling for the Martin Grant, Paris autumn–winter 1999–2000 collection, rue des Rosiers, Paris
Collection of the artist
After opening his first Paris boutique in 1996, Grant had a chance encounter with the late André Leon Talley, who became a confidant and ambassador of his practice. Later, in March 1999, Talley contacted Grant with the astonishing news that Naomi Campbell had agreed to model in the upcoming presentation of his 1999–2000 autumn–winter collection. Wearing Grant’s red wool Joan of Arc sheath dress and Napoleon coat on an intimate runway of fresh green turf laid out in his boutique, Campbell brought international attention to the young designer and his rising profile.
Martin Grant, Paris
fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in
France 1991–
Napoleon collection invitation
1999
autumn–winter 1999–2000
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy 2025
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant Studios, Melbourne
fashion house
1982–89
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Slash-back dress
1986
linen, silk
Collection of Shelley Lasica
Martin Grant Studios, Melbourne
fashion house
1982–89
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Slash-back dress
1986
linen, silk
Gift of Rosslynd Piggott, 1999 1999.318
From his Melbourne studio, Grant designed and produced two ready-to-wear collections for men and women each year, as well as continuing his bespoke work for friends and a list of clients. Collections of cropped knitwear and soft tailored separates in linen, velvet and wool became his signature, pleating, bows and button details the only embellishments. The Slash-back dress in navy linen is a key design from this period. As described by friend and collaborator Rosslynd Piggott, ‘It was something quite new at that time … Martin was much more about structure, spare but not boring, lean minimalism. [His designs are] incredibly sexy in this beautiful, elegant way.’
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Tamasine Dale designer and milliner
Melbourne, Victoria born 1965
Top hat
c. 1996
wool (felt), synthetic fabric (ribbon)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.373
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Trench coat
2024
spring–summer 2024
cotton, acetate, plastic (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Trench coat
2025
autumn–winter 2025
silk, wool, plastic (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Originally developed for British Army officers before the First World War, the trench coat has become an uncontested fashion staple. For Martin Grant, whose reputation is largely built on his mastery of sculptural form, the trench has long been a feature of his collections and something that he often returns to.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 19, coat
2005
spring–summer 2005
silk, wool, acetate, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.389.a-d
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 15, stitch coat
2003
autumn–winter 2003–04
wool, acetate and metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.377
The hand-stitched detail on this otherwise restrained cream coat highlights one of Grant’s design signatures: combining subtle details with an elegant, understated cut. Topstitching, a hallmark of Grant’s work since his earliest collections, champions the craftsmanship and intricacies of tailoring through construction with stitch details on collars, pockets and seams.
The catalyst for this work from the early 2000s was the handwritten correspondence between the designer and his friend, artist Rosslynd Piggott. In 1994 Piggott took up a sevenmonth residency at Cite International des Arts in Paris, during which time she and Grant revelled in their respective aesthetic approaches.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 7, peacoat
2003
autumn–winter 2003–04
wool, cotton (ribbon), acetate (lining), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.376
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 4, jacket
2005
autumn–winter 2005–06
wool, acetate (lining), metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Studio mood board
c.1985–2025
various
Collection of the artist
In 1981, at the age of sixteen, Grant left home and school to explore life in the city. Within a year he had established his own label and joined the creative throng of milliners, art directors, painters, fashion magazines, model agencies and rock bands spilling from the studios and offices of Stalbridge Chambers at 443 Little Collins Street.
Polly Borland photographer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1959, worked in England 1989–
Martin Grant Studios, Melbourne fashion house
1982–89
Tamasine Dale designer and milliner
Melbourne, Victoria born 1965
Featuring Martin Grant, Melbourne, Slash-back dress, c. 1986, and Tamasine Dale, Melbourne Hat, 1986
1986
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy, 2025
Courtesy Polly Borland & Sullivan Strumpf
In the early 1980s, emerging photographer Polly Borland began regularly documenting Grant’s work. Borland began by focussing on portraiture and editorial work, and quickly became established as a go-to photographer for Vogue Australia, Vogue Living, Pol and Tension Magazine, during which time she frequently shot the work of Grant.
Polly Borland photographer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1959, worked in
England 1989–
Featuring ensemble by Martin Grant, Melbourne in COLLECTIONS magazine
c.1985
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy, 2025
Courtesy Polly Borland & Sullivan Strumpf
Grant regularly presented his designs in the iconic parades staged by the Fashion Design Council (FDC), a non-profit organisation established by the Victorian State Government in the early 1980s.‘I think it was an important time in Melbourne in terms of fashion,’ reflects Grant. ‘It was the first time that young designers were given a voice and a platform to show their work.’
Polly Borland photographer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1959, worked in
England 1989–
Martin Grant
c.1985
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy, 2025
Courtesy Polly Borland & Sullivan Strumpf
Polly Borland photographer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1959, worked in England 1989–
Martin Grant
1985
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy, 2025
Courtesy Polly Borland & Sullivan Strumpf
Polly Borland photographer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1959, worked in England 1989–
Martin Grant Studios, Melbourne fashion house
1982–89
Slash-back dress
c.1986
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy, 2025
Courtesy Polly Borland & Sullivan Strumpf
Martin Grant Studios, Melbourne fashion house
1982–89
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Ballgown
1986
silk, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of Tamasine Dale
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 2, dress
2007
spring–summer 2007
linen, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.407.a-b
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 1, dress
2007
spring–summer 2007
linen, cotton, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.406.a-b
Jenny Watson
Melbourne, Victoria born 1951
Walking the dog
2007
colour digital video, sound, 1 min, 4 sec
Collection of Galerie Transit
In 2007, Jenny Watson created a series of twenty-four drawings depicting a girl wearing one of Grant’s designs as she pursues her runaway dog. The drawings were transformed into a short, animated film titled Walking the dog, that was screened during the presentation of his 2007 spring–summer collection during Paris fashion week.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 4, dress
2009
autumn–winter 2009–10
wool, polyester, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.432
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 27, bustier and skirt
2009
autumn–winter 2009–10
cotton (tulle), nylon (tulle), silk, Swarovski crystals, plastic (boning), metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist (bustier)
Gift of the artist, 2023 (skirt) 2023.435.a-b
Often what happens with the women I dress is that we become lifelong friends … to be surrounded by such fabulously interesting, intelligent and stylish women has definitely added to my success.
– Martin Grant, Harper’s Bazaar, July 2024
For the 50th anniversary edition of Vogue Australia, Cate Blanchett was illustrated by David Downton wearing this glamorous floor-sweeping ball gown ensemble from Grant’s 2009–10 autumn–winter collection. Cited by Grant as an inspiration and friend, Blanchett has been wearing his clothing since his early years in Paris.
Vogue Australia
est. 1959
David Downton illustrator
England born 1959
50 year anniversary, Cate Blanchett cover illustration featuring Martin Grant, Paris Look 27, bustier and skirt from autumn–winter 2009–10 collection
September 2009
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy, 2025
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 21, trench coat
2004
spring–summer 2004
leather, acetate
Collection of the artist
André Leon Talley introduced Grant to the iconic fashion figure Lee Radziwill. The younger sister of Jacqueline Kennedy, Radziwill had been dressed by Givenchy during the 1960s. In Grant’s work, Radziwill found her perfect wardrobe and in him, a kindred spirit, and she quickly became a close friend. Radziwill went on to have this gold leather trench coat from his 2004 spring–summer collection named in her honour.
Vogue US
est. 1892
Mario Testino photographer
Peru born 1954, worked in England 1976–
Lee Radziwilll wearing Martin Grant, Paris Look 3, coat from autumn–winter 2003–04 collection
August 2003
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy, 2025
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 6, jacket
2002
autumn–winter 2003–04
leather
Collection of Brenda Dalheim
For me, his talent lies in making coats and jackets that never feel trendy because he understands and respects line, proportion and simplicity.
– Lee Radziwill, 2015
This expertly tailored leather jacket was the first of Grant’s designs that caught the eye of influential American socialite and style icon Lee Radziwill, as she wandered through Barneys, New York with André Leon Talley. When next in Paris, she sought him out at his boutique in the Marais and there began an enduring connection.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Collection invitation
2003
autumn–winter 2003–04
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy, 2025
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 5, coat
2003
autumn–winter 2003–04
leather (calfskin suede), acetate, metal (fastenings) and plastic
(fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.375
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Blouse, trousers and turban
2016
spring–summer 2016
silk, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of Catherine Baba
Australian expat Catherine Baba is a Paris-based stylist, costume designer and style icon who has worked for many of the worlds most prestigious fashion publications, including Dazed & Confused, Vanity Fair and Vogue. Frequently captured riding her bicycle through Paris in her avant-garde wardrobe, Baba was captured wearing head-to-toe Martin Grant styled with her own accessories for the April 2016 issue of Vogue Australia.
Vogue Australia
est. 1959
Mario Testino photographer
Peru born 1954, worked in England 1976–
Catherine Baba (Birdie) wearing Martin Grant, Paris Top and pants from spring–summer 2016 collection
Special Issue, April 2016
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy, 2025
NGV archive
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 22, jumpsuit
2019
autumn–winter 2019–20
plastic (sequins), synthetic (fabric)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.574
Women such as Lady Gaga, Cate Blanchett and Lee Radziwill became frequent and devoted wearers of Grant’s pared-back, exquisitely tailored garments, bringing his work to the attention of a wider audience. In the case of Lady Gaga, the performer has reached for Grant’s designs on several occasions, choosing dramatic sequinned jumpsuits to perform in, as well as languid silk ensembles for daytime appearances at Paris Fashion Week.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 12, shirt, trousers and belt
2015
spring–summer 2015
silk (twill), polyvinyl chloride, plastic (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.498.a-c
Lady Gaga wearing Martin Grant, Paris Look 12 from spring–summer 2015 collection during Paris Fashion Week, 2015
2015
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy, 2025
Courtesy TGP / Spash News
Lady Gaga performing in October 2019 in Vegas wearing Martin Grant, Paris Look 22, jumpsuit from autumn–winter 2019 collection
2019
colour digital video, sound, 34 sec
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 30, coat
2015
autumn–winter 2015–16
viscose (satin), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.508
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Cape and bathing suit
2021
silk, neoprene, nylon and metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Robin Platzer photographer
André Leon Talley and Martin Grant attending the Martha Graham Dance Company Opening Night Gala, New York
2011
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy, 2025
Courtesy Getty Images
When André Leon Talley, former editor-at-large of Vogue US, encountered Grant’s work for the first time, he was stuck by its impeccable tailoring, couture references and precise yet fluid construction. Talley wore custom pieces by Grant and said this of his designs:
He is a fine draughtsman, his strength is in the distillation, the very process of eliminating all extraneousness from his work … It is very depouillé (clean) and is the core of his success … A Martin Grant coat has a nuance that evokes the high style of French couture seen in the best work of Hubert de Givenchy and Balenciaga.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 40, coat
2018
pre-fall 2018
silk (satin)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.547
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Dress
c. 1995
viscose (crepe)
Collection of Dana Thomas
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Suit
1995
wool, acetate, nylon and metal (fastenings)
Collection of Lorraine Caro
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Coat
1995
wool, acetate, nylon and metal (fastenings)
Collection of Lorraine Caro
Room 2
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 34, jacket and skirt
2008
spring–summer 2008
wool, acetate, metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 33, suit
2008
spring–summer 2008
wool, acetate, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.419.a-b
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Dress
2008
spring–summer 2008
silk, nylon and metal (fastenings)
Collection of Molly Nutter
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 24, dress
2020
spring–summer 2020
silk, metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 29, dress
2008
spring–summer 2008
silk and metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.418
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 6, jumpsuit
2011
spring–summer 2011
silk (georgette, satin), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.447
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 17, mini dress
2011
spring–summer 2011
silk (satin), acetate, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.448
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 12, jacket and pants
2019
autumn–winter 2019–20
silk (satin), polyester (lining), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.572.a-b
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 23, dress
2011
spring–summer 2011
silk (satin), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.449
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 26, trench coat
2018
spring–summer 2018
silk (taffeta)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.546.a-b
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 29, dress
2011
spring–summer 2011
polyester
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Corneille dress
2006
autumn–winter 2006–07
wool, acetate
Purchased, NGV Foundation, 2007 2007.13
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 22, bolero and dress
2006
silk (satin), cotton viscose (faille), jet (buttons), plastic (boning), metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist (bolero)
Gift of the artist, 2023 (dress) 2023.404
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 24, dress
2013
spring–summer 2013
silk (satin, habotai), polyester (tulle), metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 22, dress
2010
spring–summer 2010
wool
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 27, jumpsuit and skirt
2013
spring–summer 2013
polyester (crepe), silk (faille), leather (lambskin), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.475.a-c
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in
France 1991–
Takashi Osato photographer
active 2010s–
Look 42, cape and pants
2017
colour digital video, sound, 1 min, 34 sec
Collection of the artist
Grant is renowned for refining silhouettes like works of art. Look 42, cape and pants invoke performance art with the billowing cape of sheer georgette. For spring–summer 2017, the designer’s intention was to create a collection ‘more romantic, softer and less structured’ than those previous, and this is perfectly captured by Takashi Osato in this series of photographs.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 23, bustier and skirt
2009
autumn–winter 2009–10
wool/polyester (gazar), acetate, polyester, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.434.a-b
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 24, jumpsuit and necklace
2009
autumn–winter 2009–10
wool, acetate, brass, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 26, suit and necklace
2009
autumn–winter 2009–10
wool, acetate, brass, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 6, cape dress
2004
autumn–winter 2004–05
wool, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 15, suit and necklace
2009
autumn–winter 2009–10
wool, acetate, brass, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 21, jumpsuit
2012
autumn–winter 2012–13
wool, feathers (cockerel), synthetic fabric, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.471
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 3, jacket, turtleneck and pants
2007
autumn–winter 2007–08
wool, acetate, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
In a 2007 interview, Grant explained that for him a collection evolves from a single thing, whether that’s a line, fabric or colour; once that’s identified ‘you can push an idea from a jacket into a dress, a coat, a skirt, so it has a thread.’ For the designer’s 2007 autumn–winter collection, this process began with sleeves. Working with an idea of achieving structure from non-structure, peasant and puff sleeves in short, long and raglan cuts are paired with relaxed slacks to create a sense of effortless sophistication.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 13, top and pants
2007
autumn–winter 2007–08
silk, wool, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 5, jumpsuit
2010 spring–summer 2010
viscose (yarn), polyester, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.436
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 23, dress
2010
spring–summer 2010
wool
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 16, jumpsuit
2019
spring–summer 2019
silk wool, metal (fastening)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.565.a-b
Grant describes his practice as not being about ‘themes or stories, it’s always about the fabrics, the colours, the forms.’ Here, a slick double-breasted suit with matching cape and jumpsuit, featuring an asymmetric cut-away bodice, showcases Grant’s ability to distil designs without reliance on narrative. The subtle reveal of the body and shaped line of the jacket also reflect the designer’s tasteful embrace of the body’s sensuality.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 18, cape, jacket, top and pants
2019
spring–summer 2019
silk wool, acetate (lining), metal (fastenings), plastic (buttons)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.566.a-d
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 2, coat and gloves
2004
autumn–winter 2004–05
leather (cowhide, fastenings, trims) and acetate
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.384
Classic without being conservative, cosmopolitan without being trend-driven, Grant’s designs reference and reimagine mid-century couture as an ideal of style beyond fashion – one in which the designs, fabric and construction are informed by longevity. Grant’s presentation for his 2004 autumn–winter collection opened with belted cape-dresses and proceeded into coat dresses with capelet shoulders evocative of 1960s Balenciaga and Dior – a reference that Grant accredits to ‘watching old Japanese gangster movies and Marlene Dietrich in Shanghai Express.’
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 10, dress and belt
2004
autumn–winter 2004–05
wool, leather, acetate and metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.385.a-b
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 37, dress
2018
resort 2018
silk, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 38, dress
2018
resort 2018
silk, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 5, coat
2009
autumn–winter 2009–10
wool, acetate, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.433
Martin Grant explains that after ‘finding a certain volume, a certain silhouette … I strive for a perfection in the clothing and the finishing of the clothing once it actually gets to a certain style.’ These riches of design are found in the nuance of the details in Look 5, coat with the curvature of the funnel collar and sculpted waistline.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 10, coat, top and pants
2018
autumn–winter 2018–19
metallic thread, silk metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of Rosslynd Piggott (coat)
Gift of the artist, 2023 (top and pants) 2023.555.a-b
Grant’s 2019 autumn–winter collection evoked a 1970s disco and nightlife sensibility with lurex weaves and rich metallics. Comprising champagne metallic and a subtle jacquard with bronze fringe trim, Look 10, coat, top and pants coaxes a couture feel from ready-to-wear. Always beginning with fabric, modifying archival designs, Grant breathes new life into classic notched lapel coats and wide-leg trousers. Explaining his process, Grant says, ‘sometimes I’m trying to do fashion. And it’s not like I’m trying to follow fashion; I’m trying to create it.’
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 12, dress
2018
autumn–winter 2018–19
metallic thread, silk, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 1, coat, sweater and pants
2019
autumn–winter 2019–20
cotton (varnished), wool, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.570.a-d
Grant’s 2019 autumn–winter collection presentation was influenced by the designer’s late friend and loyal client, Lee Radziwill, who passed away that same year. Reflecting on this time and the process of creating the collection, Grant said ‘She’s always a part of it somewhere … The test point became: would she like it or not?’
Seeking to create something ‘a little more dynamic,’ Grant designed his reversible trench. With a black and white check on one side and bonded with a russet gloss coating on the other, this fusion was repeated in the cropped bomber jacket of Look 3. As a designer whose collections are always poised, flattering and sophisticated, Grant surprised audiences this season with his final look: an asymmetrical one-shoulder/one-leg sequin catsuit, as seen in the previous space.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 3, jacket, sweater and pants
2019
autumn–winter 2019–20
cotton (varnished), wool, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 7, jacket and pants
2015
autumn–winter 2015–16
leather (lambskin), wool, silk (satin), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.503.a-b
For Grant’s 2015 autumn–winter collection, the designer debuted a newly expanded and decorated showroom, with models gliding through the salons of crisp white walls and chevron parquetry floors, which perfectly complimented the luxe minimalism of the garments. The collection was applauded for its realised designs, with Grant described as ‘showcasing permutations of precisely tailored [silhouettes] … [rather] than pad his lineup with directional [trend driven] styles.’ The collection’s dark palette accentuates the lines, seams and pleating of the garments, highlighting the sharpness of Grant’s tailoring and construction.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 2, turtleneck and skirt
2015
autumn–winter 2015–16
leather, wool, acetate, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist (turtleneck)
Collection of Liz Stirling (skirt)
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 30, dress
2017
autumn–winter 2017–18
silk (crepe), plastic (fastenings, beads, sequins), synthetic thread (embroidery)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.538.a-b
Grant’s 2017 autumn–winter collection witnessed a departure from the designer’s aversion to decorative embellishments with exquisite, clustered beadwork flourishing over the shoulder of Look 30, dress, while Look 25, dress features a plush red rosette waist tie. Enriching the romanticism of this collection full of deep tones, textures and botanical accents, was a backdrop of impressionistically painted trees that originated from a nineteenth-century theatre, sourced from an antique market.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 25, dress and turtleneck
2017
autumn–winter 2017–18
cotton (velvet), wool, synthetic fabric (binding)
Collection of the artist (turtleneck)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.537.a-b
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 2, jumpsuit
2006
autumn–winter 2006–07
wool (tweed), silk, plastic (boning), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.402
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 6, sweater and skirt
2006
autumn–winter 2006–07
wool, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.403.a-b
Room 3
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 27, dress
2011
autumn–winter 2011–12
silk (crepe), nylon and metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 28, top and pants
2011
autumn–winter 2011–12
silk (crepe), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.455.a-b
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 26, jacket and skirt
2011
autumn–winter 2011–12
silk (crepe), sheepskin, polyester, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.454.a-b
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 29, dress
2011
autumn–winter 2011–12
silk (crepe), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.456
For his 2011 autumn–winter collection, Grant created a series of elongated, flowing silhouettes reminiscent of the maxi styles of the 1970s. Working with a palette of red, black, brown and cream, the pieces combine classic block colour coats and separates, culminating in a series of pleated pieces, the striking geometry of which is created using artfully pieced panels of contrasting colours.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 24, dress
2011
autumn–winter 2011–12
silk (crepe), metal and elastane (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.453
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 25, coat and pants
2011
autumn–winter 2011–12
wool, acetate, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 1, coat
2020
pre-fall 2020
wool, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.420.a-b
Look 1, coat is emblematic of Grant’s approach to outerwear. This striking design from pre-fall 2020 was first presented for Grant’s 2008–09 autumn–winter collection, also as the first look. With its dramatic cape-like overlaid collar, the coat was a standout silhouette, described as Grant at his ‘reality-chic best.’ This 2020 example is displayed alongside works from the 2008 collection, demonstrating Grant’s commitment to evolution. ‘I’ve gone complete slow fashion,’ said Grant when presenting the 2020 collection, which consists only of archival silhouettes. The collection marked Grant’s decision to refrain from designing new silhouettes, recutting signature styles instead.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 4, cape and trousers
2008
autumn–winter 2008–09
wool, synthetic (lining), plastic (buttons), metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist (pants)
Gift of the artist, 2023 (cape) 2023.421
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 16, suit
2008
autumn–winter 2008–09
wool, acetate, metal and plastic (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.423.a-b
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 3, dress
2008
autumn–winter 2008–09
wool, acetate, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 19, coat, sweater and stockings
2009
autumn–winter 2009–10
wool, polyester, metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 23, dress
2008
autumn–winter 2008–09
silk, acetate, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 10, trench coat
2008
autumn–winter 2008–09
patent leather, acetate, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Anna coat
2005
autumn–winter 2005–06
wool, mohair, silk (grosgrain), polyester
Gift of the artist, 2007 2007.547
Grant’s preference for a limited colour palette enables him to empahsise the overall silhouette of a garment. His understated approach to design allows the clarity and disticntiveness of each work to be revealed. The lusterous black boucle wool of the Anna coat is punctuated with bands of black grosgrain ribbon to accentuate the distcintive volumes of the balloon sleeves and floating shawl collar.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 29, dress
2005
autumn–winter 2005–06
cotton (net), acetate (lining)
Gift of Rosslynd Piggott, 2017 2017.140
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Shirt dress
2005
autumn–winter 2005–06
wool
Gift of the artist, 2007 2007.548
Grant is known for his skilled re-working of wardrobe staples. Classic garments such as the 1960s shirtwaist dress, regularly worn by his grandmother when he was a child, are revised through the introduction of a distinctive collar, plunging neckline, fitted sleeves and restrained fabric detailing. The irregular pleated surface of the skirt panel of this example creates subtle patterning across the fine wool surface.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Liz dress
2005
autumn–winter 2005–06
silk, cotton, polyester
Gift of the artist, 2007 2007.549
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 2, jacket and skirt
2005
autumn–winter 2005–06
wool, acetate, silk (jersey, satin), metal and plastic (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 (jacket) 2023.392
Collection of the artist (skirt)
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 1, coat
2005
autumn–winter 2005–06
wool, acetate, leather, plastic (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.391
Grant has always sought out alterantive ways to present each new collection. This often involves working away from the traditional raised catwalk and seeking more intimate settings and modes of presentation. For his 2005–06 autumn–winter collection, each look was photographed by longtime friend and collaborator Polly Borland, shown here as a dynamic large-scale projection.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 33, evening dress
2005
autumn–winter 2005–06
silk (satin, jersey), acetate and metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 24, dress
2014
spring–summer 2014
cotton linen (jacquard), cotton polyester (lining), tulle, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 5, dress
2014
spring–summer 2014
cotton linen (jacquard), cotton polyester (lining), tulle, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.486
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 21, bathing suit, belt and scarf
2014
spring–summer 2014
neoprene, silk, cotton (grosgrain), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.489.a-c
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 21, bathing suit, belt, scarf
2014
spring–summer 2014
neoprene, cotton (grosgrain), wool, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.488.a-c
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 23, dress
2014
spring–summer 2014
neoprene, cotton (tulle), nylon (netting), polyester (taffeta), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.490
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 25, dress
2014
spring–summer 2014
neoprene, silk (jacquard), nylon (tulle), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.491.a-b
Grant’s 2014 spring–summer collection was launched as an intimate presentation rather than a large-scale runway, which allowed the assembled press and clients to take in its detail. The building block of the collection was a neoprene bodysuit worn as a bathing suit, which formed the basis of a series of expertly cut gowns in black, white and red. Designed specifically for this collection, the dynamic black-and-white jacquard fabric heightens the silhouettes of his voluminous skirts and signature sculptural bustiers.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 1, coat, blouse, trousers
2018
autumn–winter 2018–19
nylon (satin), silk (satin, crepe), plastic and metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.551.a-d
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 3, coat and jumpsuit
2018
autumn–winter 2018–19
fleece (sheepskin), silk (sand wash), elastane, plastic (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.552.a-c
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Tamasine Dale designer and milliner
Melbourne, Victoria born 1965
Hat
2017
autumn–winter 2017–18
wool (felt), synthetic fabric (lining), grosgrain (band)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.544
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Tamasine Dale designer and milliner
Melbourne, Victoria born 1965
Look 17, hat, coat, shirt and pants
2017
autumn–winter 2017–18
wool, cotton viscose, plastic (buttons), synthetic fabric (lining, grosgrain)
Collection of the artist (coat)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.535.a-b, 2023.544
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 18, shirt and pants
2017
autumn–winter 2017–18
silk (organza), wool (organza), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.569.a-b
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Tamasine Dale designer and milliner
Melbourne, Victoria born 1965
Look 1, cape, trousers and hat
2017
autumn–winter 2017–18
cotton (corduroy), acetate (lining), wool (felt), plastic and metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.533.a-b, 2023.543
According to Grant, his affinity for outerwear began when he first relocated to Paris in the early 1990s: ‘I instantly noticed their coats … I thought I’d love to design statement coats … I often say it’s why I left Australia … so I could have more of an excuse to design coats.’ Now renowned for reinventing classic coat forms, here Grant fuses a draped cape with a tailored collar and centre front buttons. This cape epitomises Grant’s design process, which in French is called moulage: ‘literally moulding the fabric on the dummy … I’ve never been a designer who draws a flat drawing and then executes it.’ Consequently, designs such as this cape appear to intuitively emerge through a direct manipulation of fabric on a dressmaker’s mannequin.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 1, trench coat, shirt, pants, belt
2017
spring–summer 2017
cotton (poplin, sateen), leather (lambskin), metal, plastic (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.526.a-d
‘I privilege the plain,’ says Grant, ‘but more and more I enjoy prints and graphics.’ Inspired by a holiday in Greece, Grant’s 2017 spring–summer collection saw the designer indulge in colour and surface decoration beyond his signature approach. Pursuing varying nautical stripes, exaggerated chevrons and abstract geometric prints, Grant proposes a new take on staple silhouettes, while new designs feature adjustable accents that encourage the wearer to explore diverse ways of styling the garments.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 1, coat and pants
2016
spring–summer 2016
linen, leather (lambskin), silk and metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 (coat) 2023.510.a-c
Collection of Liz Stirling (pants)
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 6, dress
2018
autumn–winter 2018–19
nylon (satin), synthetic fabric (taffeta), metal (zip)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.553
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 8, dress
2018
autumn–winter 2018–19
nylon (satin), synthetic fabric (lining), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.554.a-b
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 22, dress
2012
spring–summer 2012
silk (woven, blend, taffeta), acetate, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.462
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 19, jumpsuit and belt
2018
autumn–winter 2018–19
silk (lurex), silk (lining), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.556.a-b
Typically harnessing a single statement colour, the 2019 autumn–winter collection adopts bronzes, plums, caramels and canary yellow in sumptuous duchesse satins and jacquards. A recurring silhouette for the designer is the jumpsuit, however, this season, Grant tantalises the sleeve with a ruffle trim extending across the shoulder. The collection also comprises sculptural cocktail dresses, harking back to the designer’s intrinsic understanding of three-dimensional form – both Look 6 and Look 8 feature asymmetric flounces and exaggerated shoulders that imbue blooming flowers.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 26, evening dress
2007
autumn–winter 2007–08
lurex, acetate and metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.413
Comprising black, white, grey and purple designs of pleated fan bodices, pouf hemlines and swaybacks, Grant’s 2007 autumn–winter collection is a masterclass in voluminous tailoring. Critics particularly commended Grant’s tulip and bubble cocktail dresses – which feature secondary cutaway cocooning skirts – for their dramatic silhouettes executed with concerted restraint.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 24, dress
2007
autumn–winter 2007–08
silk (satin), synthetic fabric, metal and plastic (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.412
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 27, dress
2007
autumn–winter 2007–08
silk (satin), synthetic fabric, metal and nylon (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 27, jumpsuit and belt
2014
autumn–winter 2014–15
wool, leather, plastic (boning), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.496.a-b
Gilles Bensimon photographer
France born 1944
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 27, jumpsuit and belt
2014
pigment inkjet print
exhibition copy, 2025
Collection of artist
Collaborations with photographers have also been a strong thread throughout Grant’s career. Several leading photographers such as Polly Borland, Gilles Bensimon, Takashi Osato, Daniel Roche and Sarah Moon have been instrumental in documenting and interpreting his work for over forty years.
In 2014, Grant selected Bensimon to document his 2014–15 autumn–winter collection. Known for his clean light-filled images, Bensimon used the sparse white interior details of the designer’s atelier as the backdrop for this striking black jumpsuit, photographed on a raised plinth from below to exaggerate the flawless lines of the collection’s finale look.
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 24, dress
2010
spring–summer 2010
silk, nylon and metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Sarah Moon
France born 1940
The red dress
La robe rouge
2010, printed 2025
archival pigment print
artist’s proof 3/5
Purchased NGVWA, 2025
Sarah Moon studied drawing and worked as a fashion model before beginning her career as a fashion photographer and filmmaker in 1968. Moon is known for her dreamlike representations of femininity free from time and context, as in this atmospheric image of Grant’s Look 24, dress, 2010. The model is photographed from behind; the red dress and shoes seem to blend into the background, and the curves and texture of the garment gently echo the abstracted shapes behind it.
New acquisition
Room 4
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 28, evening dress
2007
autumn–winter 2007–08
silk (velvet), metallic thread, acetate, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.414
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 1, dress and necklace
2009
spring–summer 2009
linen silk, acetate, metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 (dress) 2023.427
Collection of the artist (necklace)
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 24, evening dress
2013
spring–summer 2013
silk, wool, nylon and metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 28, evening dress
2006
autumn–winter 2006–07
silk (taffeta), jet (beads), plastic (boning), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.405
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 33, gown
2008
autumn–winter 2008–09
silk, nylon and metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 25, gown
2014
autumn–winter 2014–15
cotton, metallic thread (jacquard), silk (taffeta), polyester (tulle), plastic (boning), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.495
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 21, dress
2019
spring–summer 2019
silk (taffeta), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.567
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 29, dress
2008
spring–summer 2008
silk, nylon and metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 8, dress
2018
autumn–winter 2018–19
silk (satin), nylon and metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 35, gown
2008
spring–summer 2008
silk (satin), nylon and metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 9, gown
2008
autumn–winter 2008–09
wool (crepe), acetate (lining), metal (fastenings)
Gift of the artist, 2023 2023.426.a-b
Martin Grant, Paris fashion house
est. 1992
Martin Grant designer
Melbourne, Victoria born 1966, worked in France 1991–
Look 25, gown
2009
autumn–winter 2009–10
silk (taffeta), nylon and metal (fastenings)
Collection of the artist
Christian Louboutin for Martin Grant
In 1996, French shoe designer Christian Louboutin first lent Martin Grant his iconic red-soled shoes to support the young designer and accompany his work on the runway. They formed an important creative partnership, that continues to this day.
All shoes in the exhibition are courtesy of Christian Louboutin.